Mindful Journeys: Walk the Ancient Roman Roads of Italy
Tuscan-Emilia, Liguria, Lombardia
For me Italy means lively streets full of passionate conversations, potted geraniums spilling out of balconies, a maze of cobblestone pathways and agrarian vistas punctuated by tall columnar cypress trees. The Italian saying "Il dolce far niente", which loosley translated to "The sweetness of doing nothing" reminds me of the message of mindfulness, maybe just add wine. But at the heart of both is the act of simply enjoying the moment. Check out this post about Daily Mindfulness Practice.
Last time we were in Italy it was just the two of us, my boyfriend and I. Now we are back, married and have brought along our two kids!! My husband studied Italian in college and the kids and I started practicing Italian using the free app. duolingo, which was very helpful. It is always a good idea to try and pick up a bit of the language spoken in the country you are traveling to. Making an effort to greet and offer some introductions to locals you meet can go a long way and helps you feel more connected to a place. There is nothing worse than a loud American in a foreign country, expecting everyone to speak English.
We arrived in Milan, Italy on a sweltering August afternoon. We flew Delta airlines and enjoyed an excellent flight. We rented a car at the airport and drove to a cute little rental run by the lovely Anna and Carlo in a great neighborhood of Casorate Sempione, just outside of Milan. After walking to a tasty little pizza restaurant a few blocks away, we stumbled back home to get some rest.
Tavernelle in the Lunigiana
The next morning, after a quick breakfast we hopped in our rental car and drove two and half hours out of the city and up into the Tuscan-Emilia Apennines region into an area called the Lunigiana. We were excited to explore this off-the-beaten-path part of Italy, just on the border of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna.
We arrived in the tiny town of Tavernelle to meet my family at a villa rental for the week. This is a TINY town, which we liked. We were able to get to know the locals more easily this way but if you are looking for a bit more action packed experience in Tuscany, I would recommend one of the bigger towns like Lucca or Sienna, two of my fave Tuscan towns. Our villa, called Palazzo del Duca, owned and managed by the sweet couple Mirella and Francesco, is a picturesque stone building with a pool in a beautiful garden setting . Mirella and Francesco are amazing cooks and you can arrange for them to create a feast to remember, for your group. Francesco is also an excellent vintner.
The villa is made up of several apartments that can be rented separately or you can rent the entire villa for a large group. A block a way is a little cafe, great for morning espresso and pastries and in the back is a low key but amazing restaurant featuring regional specialties. One thing we loved about Tavernelle was access to a enchanting creek, replete with crumbling ancient stone walls and swimming holes. We went each day to go swimming and look for frogs, butterflies and tiny lizards. We also saw a hedgehog in the garden at the village! As always, getting kids outside and into nature is a great activity no matter where you are! Check out this post.
A Mindful Moment
One afternoon, I had a moment to myself in Tavernelle and decided to wander the trails nearby. I wandered the trail down passed the Mill House, across the crumbling Roman bridge, over the River Taverone and hiked up through a woodland of Chestnut, Oak and Fig. I emerged from the trail on to a narrow road, passing an olive orchard and ending at a stone tunnel that lead into a tiny village. These are the ancient Salt trails, where 2000 years ago salt was mined and carried down to the sea. The word Salary originates from a Roman soldier's allowance to buy salt. Such an amazing place, so rich with history, I can feel it in the stone walls everywhere.
These are the ancient Salt trails, where 2000 years ago salt was mined and carried down to the sea. The word Salary originates from a Roman soldier's allowance to buy salt.
Day Trip to Ligurian coast and the Cinque Terre
One of our favorite day trips while in Tavernelle was an adventure to the sea, to find our old friend Ivo in the Cinque Terre. We drove about 45 minutes to the seaside town of Lerici, a vibrant place with a festive beach side promenade, outdoor market and plenty of cafes and gelaterias.
The marina is packed with little boats floating on turquoise water and a 12th century castle looming above town. At the marina we bought our boat tickets to Riomaggiore, in the Cinque Terre to visit an old friend.
These waters are considered the Italian Riviera and the ride was not short on gorgeous views. Last my husband and I were in Italy we befriended a local cafe owner in Riomaggiore, the first of the famous Cinque Terre villages from the south. When we visited previously, we arrived by train, our home base being Riomaggiore and then we explored all of the villages via the hiking trail, as well as the easy train rides stopping at all villages throughout the day.
This beautiful area is an Unesco World Heritage Site, and definitely worth exploring if you have more time, each town having their own unique charm and identity. Be sure to get off the main paths and wander the maze of stairways and stone walkways tucked away from the crowds. Hiking the trails between the towns is an extraordinary experience, seeing all of the cliff side dwellings, gardens and paths linking all 5 towns, not to mention the staggering views.
Riomaggiore has the feel of an old-world fishing village with a steep main street flanked by brightly colored apartment buildings and cafes. Head to Bar Centrale where Ivo serves up tasty meals and delicious beverages. The beach here is lovely, albeit rocky. My family enjoyed jumping off of the rocks and snorkeling in the bay. After a very eventful day, we headed back to Tavernelle.
We arrived home late to a festive affair! Another delightful thing about Tavernelle is how lively it gets in the evening. Come 9pm, music is playing, the community is hanging around the cafe and the local kids are playing soccer (futbol) in the field, beside the restaurant. My son had great fun joining in the local soccer scene and we enjoyed chatting with community members.
Lake Como
After a magical adventure in and around Tavernelle, we bid farewell to Francesco and Mirella and drove our rental car back to Milan. From the rental drop off at the airport in Milan, it was easy to catch a train to our next destination, Lake Como. We chose the town of Varenna, for it's easy accessibility (did not have to rent a car) and proximity to other towns, not to mention its charm. It was a 5 minute walk from the train station in Varenna to our dreamy little airbnb flat, overlooking the lake. Our apartment was small but worked just fine for us, with a stunning view over the lake from our balcony. We were able to walk to everything, including the ferry for fun rides around the lake to visit other towns.
We arrived around lunch time and decided to check out the Lido. Lido is the Italian word for beach or a place to swim. In Varenna there was a small fee to get in to this fenced in gravelly area with lakeside lounge chairs. Snacks and beverages were ordered at the counter inside and then brought out to us. There was a fun dock for plunging into the water and a nice swimming area we all enjoyed. That evening we found a festive outdoor cafe on the main piazza where plenty of kids were running about. Naturally, our kids jumped at the chance to runabout with other kids....giving the grown ups a chance to sit back and watched the sun go down over the sparkling water. Before our meal arrived the kids were able to find a geocache on the far side of the piazza. Check out this post for traveling with kids and you will learn more about what geocaching is and how we love to do it when we travel. It is a fun way to help us explore new places, while getting the kids involved. We finished the evening off with a gelato of course, and a stroll along Varenna's waterfront promenade.
As you may have guessed, the food was unbelievable, pasta carbonara, any and all of the pizza, and bruschetta were some of our favorites. If it is not indicated on the menu, inquire with your server about any regional dishes. It is really amazing to learn about the differences in pasta shapes, how each region takes great pride in their specialty and how each different kind of pasta serves as a vessel for a particular kind of sauce.
The next few days were full of exploration around town and nearby. One warm afternoon we enjoyed yet another waterfront meal and then wandered down to a little stone beach, where we were all able to wade out into the lake for a swim.
Another day we decided to trek up the steep cobblestone path to the castle on the hill. Castillo di Vezio is a smaller castle, great for kids to explore.
The hike up is quite steep, took us about 20 minutes but you are rewarded with 11th century castle ruins, complete with a falconry show and a draw bridge. The castle also has these ghostly plaster sculptures perched all around which can be pretty foreboding.
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Falconry at the Castle. Yes, I took this photo! -
Castillo di Vezio -
View from our flat
Later that day after a rest back at our apartment, we took the ferry over to Bellagio and Mennagio for lunch and some more geocaching. Both towns were quite busy, full of beautiful art galleries, cafes, churches, gardens and vividly painted buildings. Perfect for meandering around, looking for hidden treasures.
We ended our time in Italy with an early rise, an espresso and pastries at the train station in Varenna. From there, we hopped on and off trains, making our way to our next adventure: Switzerland, which you can read more about here.
Italy stole our hearts long ago and we will surely return. For family travel, Italy is full of beautiful and historic places to explore, easy and comfortable train rides with spectacular views and mouth watering food and..of course...gelato!! Mille Grazie Italia!!!
If interested in more tips on travel in Italy, we are big fans of Rick Steve's travel guides, as well as the Lonely Planet. Check out this book and this book.
Be a Mindful Traveler
What does it mean to be a mindful traveler? The practice ofmindfulness is all about being present, really living in the moment andsoaking in what is in front of you. Perhaps listening deeply to anotherin a conversation, observing how a place or a life style is bothdifferent and/or the same as your own, connecting to people and placesin a way that fills us with joy and illuminates the realization that weare all in this together. Truly at the core of all things is the pursuitof happiness.
At My Peaceful Wild we strive to share our adventures in a way thatencourages others to go out into the world and participate in a style oftravel that is mindful and connects to a place with kindness andcompassion. Of course many have a “bucket list” of travel destinations,myself included. It is a big beautiful world after all! Along with goingplaces to see beautiful landscapes, cities, architecture, let’s worktogether to spread a message of hope, kindness, environmentalstewardship, supporting and celebrating local communities and cultures.Let’s get out there and experience a place as a citizen of the earth on amission to connect to a sense of place. What does it mean to be anOregonian, a Hawaiian, an Italian, a Mexican or a Kenyan? The world isso full of beauty, mystery, language, food, traditions, history, joy andsorrow. As you get out there and experience it, do it mindfully andwith compassion. Now go!
Be well, be kind and make time to get outside and explore!
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Mindful Journeys: In search of Wonder in Switzerland - Explore the Jungfrau Region
From Italy to Switzerland
Ah Switzerland!! Your shockingly beautiful mountains cause me to fall to my knees and weep. No joke, but I am “special” that way. Equally inspiring are the tiny villages peppering these towering alpine valleys, where hard working people have carved out a peaceful way of life. You can go hiking in Switzerland from village to village and see for yourself!
We traveled to Switzerland via northern Italy by train. Make that 4 trains in one day. One of the fun things about traveling around Europe is the ease and speed at which you can move from country to country. We started in the morning in Varenna, Italy on Lake Como, where we took a train to Milan. We then found our train to Brig, Switzerland. Once we arrived in Brig we then took two more trains, transferring in Spiez and Interlaken Ost before finally arriving at our destination of Lauterbrunnen. We were able to book this entire itinerary through the travel agent at the train station in Varenna, which made things much easier. The excitement of changing trains, getting tickets validated, and finding the correct train to board, was something else! We planned it that way because we needed to meet some friends in Lauterbrunnen that evening. In some cases there were just minutes between transfers. On the upside it got us very comfortable with European train travel. Mind you, the majority of these train rides afforded mesmerizing scenery replete with picturesque villages, sparkling lakes and snowy peaks.
Lauterbrunnen
When we arrived in Lauterbrunnen, we were awestruck by the plethora of waterfalls spilling down the cliff sides flanking this vibrant little town. Cradled by a cathedral of showy mountain ridges, Lauterbrunnen feels very festive, with a main street, decorated with Swiss flags and full of cafes, restaurants, outdoor gear shops and various places to stay. We tend to stay at a range of accommodations when we travel, from more budget friendly or mid-range places and then splurging on more special spots too.
For the start of our journey in Switzerland we chose the Valley Hostel. A very family-friendly place our “family-style” room came with a cozy loft for the kids and soft slippers for each guest. After a quick check-in, we headed out to meet our dear friends from Oregon who we had planned to travel with for this Swiss part of our journey. Traveling with another family is on my list of tips for traveling with kids. Let’s face it, kids need other kids….sometimes adults can be boring. Or as my son will say, "Sometimes adults can be fun!" Sheesh. So, we met our friends at Hotel Steinbock for hot coco and delicious fondue, must haves for any Swiss journey. Next up? A good night of rest!
The following day was full of exploration in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Hiking and walking in Switzerland between some of the villages in this Valley is really pretty easy! We visited the car-free tiny towns of Murren and Gimmelwald. To access Murren from Lauterbrunnen, we took the cableway from the north end of town up to Grutschalp, where you catch a narrow gauge mountain train to Murren. Both of these modes of transportation are awesome experiences by them selves! Murren is such a stunningly beautiful little town. If interested in staying here check out this link for lodging. Once in Murren you can enjoy a down hill amble through town, making your way slowly to the town of Gimmelwald, stopping often to marvel at the constant mountain vistas, charming cafes, picture perfect Swiss chalets and pastures full of cows. This walk exposes you to the magnificence of the Jungfrau region in the Bernese Oberland (link). When you picture Switzerland in your mind, this is the place you are envisioning. The walk on pedestrian only paths will take you about 20 minutes, and our group included 6 year olds and 10 year olds.
Gimmelwald
Once in Gimmelwald we stumbled upon Pension Gimmelwald, for lunch. Their dining room opens up to a patio with a mountain backdrop so unbelievable, you will feel like you are in a screensaver.
We immediately inquired about room availability and booked a room for the following evening, as it would be a good starting point for our big trek to the Obersteinberg Hotel, which I will talk more about later in this post. This 100 year old pension is oozing with old world charm. There are a range of room types to suit families, couples or single trekkers, as the area is very popular with back packers.
Back on the dining patio, we enjoyed delicious soup with bread and charcuterie. The kids discovered a little trail from the patio that led through a hillside meadow to an awesome play structure with a speedy tunnel slide! This spot was pretty dreamy for the kiddos. After lunch we caught a cable car, right by the play structure, down to Schtechelberg. Warning, this is a pretty steep cable car ride, so if you are afraid of heights, you may want to close your eyes, however you would miss the incredible views.
Trummelbach Falls
From Schtechelberg we walked along the road to TrummelbachFalls. You must pay to get into the falls and there are many visitors to sharein the experience but it is worth it. You will get to take an elevator insidethe mountain and then follow paths through the mountain to see a waterfall flowingin and out of caves, within the mountain. Once you get back down to the bottom,there is a nice little café for a snack or a treat. From Trummelbach, we walkedall of the way back to Lauterbrunnen. It is a flat beautiful walk but it didget a bit long. As an alternative you can take a bus back from either Schtechelbergor Trummelbach.
The next day was a little more leisurely. Since we had a pretty big mountain trek planned for the following day, the kids convinced the grown-ups that we should take cable cars all of the way from Lauterbrunnen back to Pension Gimmelwald, which worked just fine. Another lovely option is Esther's Guesthouse in Gimmelwald. So we enjoyed a lazy day of wandering about Gimmelwald, and hanging around the pension. Lazy days are key to travel with kids. We elected to order the kids a pizza from the Mountain Hostel, just below our spot and then the parents enjoyed a multi-course meal put together by the pension. Highly recommended, if you stay here.
The Obersteinberg Hotel
The next day was a big one and the inspiration for our journey to Switzerland. We had always dreamed of participating in the “hut-to-hut” backpacking experience, where you can hike from one lodging to the next. With the amount of time we had and our young hikers’ abilities, we opted for just a one night stop at the Obersteinberg Mountain Hotel. There are so many huts to hike to throughout Switzerland and all over Europe really. This was simply what we had time for and the region we wanted to explore that seemed well suited for our group of young trekkers. We also give many thanks to the staff at the Valley Hostel, who helped us pick the best route. Starting from Gimmelwald we had a 7 mile trek up to the “hut” for the night and the following day we would hike back out and down to Stechelberg, where we would bus back to Lauterbrunnen. We were really excited about the idea of getting to an accommodation only accessed by foot. The really special part was that we did not have to carry much with us, especially for the kids. All we brought were snacks for the trail, appropriate layers and a few hygiene items. The mountain hut would provide bedding and food.
We are a pretty well seasoned hiking family but a 7-mile hike mostly be up hill, was still a challenge, particularly for the 6 year olds.
We took MANY breaks on the side of the trail, sometimes finding lovely benches with gorgeous views, perfect for snacking on yummy homemade cheese produced in Gimmelwald. We were happy to offer our young trekkers plenty of Swiss chocolate and gummy bears and a moment of rest for some story telling....ok and maybe some whining, quite a bit actually....but we kept going and going and finally WE DID IT!! We made it to the Obersteinberg. After trudging up plenty of switchbacks, carefully crossing a few steep drainages ( a little scary..take it slow), visiting with trail side goats and cows, we slowly made our way. This beautiful lodge provided simple clean rooms, an amazing 4-course meal and scenery that blew our minds. The parents got to sit back and enjoy in a cold lager, mesmerized by the Swiss Alps while the kids were completely entertained by catching crickets, following the many drainages that created little meandering creeks down the mountain side, visiting with the mountain goats, horses and pigs on site and simply watching the waterfalls flow. What. A. Day….
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Trail side vista -
Tiny little beauty -
We made it!
With our bellies full, we made our way back to our rooms. Because there is no electricity, each room is equipped with a little old fashioned candle holder…especially helpful to make your way down the hall to the bathrooms! The next morning, after a hearty breakfast we headed back down the trail, this time it was all down hill. Phew! Throughout this entire journey, the mountains commanded many a mindful moment, to soak it all in and sit in wonder at how teeny tiny we all are. I miss those mountains. It is important not get too wrapped up in sightseeing when you travel, to remember to take plenty of moments to just sit back and take it all in....the wonder and perspective of being in a place different from your own.
Eventually the trail led us right into Schtechelberg, where we caught a bus back to Lauterbrunnen. The Valley Hostel had a storage room for our non-trekking luggage, so we grabbed our stuff and caught the next train to Zurich!!
Zurich
We had a soft landing at the modern Novotel Hotel in Zurich.Mind boggling to have literally come down from the mountains, hopped on acouple of trains and made our way into a big bustling city. We did not havemuch time in Zurich, as our plane back to the states was the next day. TheNovotel was a great choice, near the airport with a free shuttle there, fun andfestive for the kids and quite modern, with a particularly expansive and tastybreakfast buffet before our big day of travel back home.
What an adventure it was!!!! We had been in Italy a few weeks before our 5 day adventure in Switzerland and it was the perfect close to an amazing journey. We will surely return!
You can read about our adventure in Italy here. For more travel tips on travel in Switzerland we are big fans of The Lonely Planet and Rick Steve's guide books.
Be a Mindful Traveler
What does it mean to be a mindful traveler? The practice of mindfulness is all about being present, really living in the moment and soaking in what is in front of you. Perhaps listening deeply to another in a conversation, observing how a place or a life style is both different and/or the same as your own, connecting to people and places in a way that fills us with joy and illuminates the realization that we are all in this together. Truly at the core of all things is the pursuit of happiness. Check out this post about Daily Mindfulness Practice.
At My Peaceful Wild we strive to share our adventures in a way thatencourages others to go out into the world and participate in a style oftravel that is mindful and connects to a place with kindness andcompassion. Of course many have a “bucket list” of travel destinations,myself included. It is a big beautiful world after all! Along with goingplaces to see beautiful landscapes, cities, architecture, let’s worktogether to spread a message of hope, kindness, environmentalstewardship, supporting and celebrating local communities and cultures.Let’s get out there and experience a place as a citizen of the earth on amission to connect to a sense of place. What does it mean to be anOregonian, a Hawaiian, an Italian, a Mexican or a Kenyan? The world isso full of beauty, mystery, language, food, traditions, history, joy andsorrow. As you get out there and experience it, do it mindfully andwith compassion. Now go!
Be well, be kind and make time to get outside and explore!